how to sew a hem
To sew a clean, basic hem, you fold the raw edge of the fabric up twice, press each fold with an iron, then stitch close to the inner fold by hand or sewing machine so the edge is fully enclosed and doesn’t fray.
Quick Scoop
- A hem is the finished edge at the bottom of garments like pants, skirts, and sleeves.
- The most common beginner method is a “double‑fold hem”: fold a small amount up, press, fold up again, then sew.
- You can hem by hand (almost invisible on the outside) or by machine (faster and durable).
Basic double‑fold hem
- Measure and mark
- Decide how long you want the garment.
- Mark the finished length with chalk or pins, then add extra length for the hem allowance (often 2–4 cm / 1–1.5 in) before cutting or folding.
- First fold and press
- Place the fabric wrong side up.
- Fold the raw edge up about 0.5–1 cm (around 1/4–3/8 in) and press with an iron along the entire edge to flatten it.
- Second fold and press
- Fold the edge up again to the planned hem depth so the raw edge is hidden inside the fold.
- Press and pin or clip the hem all the way around, keeping the width even.
- Sew the hem
- On a sewing machine, use a straight stitch and sew near the inner folded edge from the right side of the garment, backstitching at the start and end.
* For hand sewing, use a simple slip stitch or blind hem stitch, catching only a few threads of the outer fabric so the stitches barely show.
- Final press
- Press the hem once more from the right side so it lies flat and looks crisp.
Simple variations
- Narrow hem: Use a smaller allowance and narrower folds for lightweight fabrics like chiffon or lining.
- Serged hem: Finish the raw edge with a serger or zigzag, fold up once, then stitch—faster and less bulky.
- Pants hems: The process is the same; just measure while wearing the correct shoes, then fold, press, and sew around each leg.
Information gathered from public forums or data available on the internet and portrayed here.