To fix a leaky faucet, you usually need to turn off the water, disassemble the handle, replace worn internal parts (washer, O‑rings, or cartridge), then reassemble and test. Below is a clear, step‑by‑step guide plus forum-style tips and safety notes.

Quick Scoop

  • Most drips come from worn washers, O‑rings, or a bad cartridge inside the faucet.
  • If your faucet is old, stiff, or badly corroded, replacement may be easier than repair.
  • Always shut off water under the sink before taking anything apart.

Step 1: Identify Your Faucet Type

Common residential faucet types:

  • Compression (two handles, turn a lot to open, older style, has rubber washers).
  • Cartridge (one or two handles, smooth motion, common in newer bathrooms and kitchens).
  • Ball (single handle, rounded dome cap, often older kitchen faucets).
  • Ceramic disc (single lever, wide cylindrical body, smooth “quarter‑turn” feel).

If you are unsure, note brand/model on the faucet or take a close photo before you start; this helps you match replacement parts at the hardware store.

Step 2: Prep – Tools and Safety

Turn this into a small project, not an emergency: Turn off water and prepare:

  1. Turn off the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink (clockwise until snug).
  2. Open the faucet to relieve pressure and drain remaining water.
  3. Put the sink stopper in or lay a rag in the basin so you don’t drop screws down the drain.

Useful tools:

  • Adjustable wrench or slip‑joint pliers (with tape on jaws to avoid scratching).
  • Phillips and flathead screwdrivers.
  • Allen (hex) key for some handles.
  • Replacement kit (washer/O‑rings or cartridge, depending on faucet).
  • Plumber’s grease (silicone-based) and possibly Teflon tape.

Step 3: General Disassembly Steps

The exact parts differ, but the overall pattern is similar:

  1. Remove the decorative cap on the handle (often marked hot/cold) with a small flat screwdriver or fingernail.
  2. Unscrew the handle screw (Phillips or hex) and pull the handle straight off.
  3. Remove any trim ring or decorative cover beneath the handle.
  4. Loosen and remove the retaining nut or cap with a wrench (do not overtighten when you later reinstall).
  5. Pull out the inner mechanism:
    • Compression: a stem with washer at the end.
    • Cartridge: a plastic/metal cartridge that pulls straight up.
    • Ball: a ball plus small rubber seats and springs.
    • Disc: a ceramic disc cylinder.

As you remove parts, lay them out in order on a towel and snap a quick photo after each step; this makes reassembly much easier.

Step 4: Fix by Faucet Type

A. Compression (two handles, uses rubber washers)

Typical symptom: drip from spout after turning handles off firmly.

  1. Remove handle and stem:
    • After taking off the handle, unscrew the packing/retaining nut.
    • Twist the stem out (turn as if turning the water on).
  2. Replace the washer and inspect the valve seat:
    • At the bottom of the stem is a screw holding a rubber washer; remove the screw and washer.
    • Install a new washer of the same size and type.
    • Look into the faucet body with a flashlight: if the valve seat looks pitted or rough, it may need to be replaced or resurfaced (there are small seat‑wrenches and seats sold for this).
  3. Reassemble:
    • Reinsert the stem, thread the packing nut back on, then reinstall the handle and cap.

If it still drips, the valve seat or packing around the stem may need further attention, or the faucet body may simply be too worn.

B. Cartridge faucet (one or two handles)

Typical symptom: drip from spout or leak at base of spout; handle may feel loose or hard to “find” the exact off position (a common complaint in forums).

  1. Remove handle and trim:
    • Pop off the cap, remove the screw, and pull off the handle.
    • Remove any retaining clip or nut holding the cartridge in place.
  2. Pull out the cartridge:
    • Note the orientation before removal (take a photo).
    • Pull it straight up; you might need pliers on the stem if it’s stuck.
  3. Replace cartridge and O‑rings:
    • Install an identical new cartridge (match brand/part number; bring the old one to the store).
    • If the faucet leaks at the base, replace O‑rings on the spout as well and lightly coat them with plumber’s grease.
  4. Reassemble and test:
    • Reinstall retaining clip/nut, handle, and cap.
    • Turn water on slowly and test hot and cold.

If you had to “twist the handle into a specific position” to stop the drip, a new cartridge often makes it feel like new.

C. Ball faucet (older single‑handle kitchen style)

  1. Remove the handle and dome cap.
  2. Lift out the cam, washer, and ball.
  3. Remove rubber seats and springs beneath the ball with a small screwdriver or pick.
  4. Install new seats and springs from a repair kit; reinstall ball, aligning holes correctly.
  5. Replace cam and washer, then the cap and handle.

Leaks at the base of the spout on ball faucets often mean worn O‑rings on the spout, which can also be replaced with the kit.

D. Ceramic disc faucet

  1. Remove handle and decorative trim.
  2. Unscrew the retaining nut and pull out the disc cartridge/cylinder.
  3. Install a new disc cartridge of the same type.
  4. Reassemble, being careful not to overtighten, as ceramic parts can crack.

Ceramic disc faucets are durable, but once the disc cartridge is damaged or worn, replacement is usually the only practical fix.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Once the repaired or new parts are in:

  1. Reassemble in reverse order, using your photos as a guide.
  2. Before turning the shutoff valves fully open, crack them open slowly to avoid blasting the new parts with high pressure.
  3. Run both hot and cold for 30–60 seconds to flush debris.
  4. Check:
    • Spout for drips after shutting it off.
    • Around handle base and under the sink for hidden leaks.

If you still see drips:

  • Recheck that the cartridge or stem is fully seated and aligned.
  • Verify you replaced the correct washer/O‑ring size.
  • Make sure retaining nuts are snug, not loose, but not over‑cranked.

Mini “Forum Discussion” View

“The handle doesn’t work right and I have to park it just so or it drips. Is it dead?”

Common community advice:

  • If the faucet is mid‑range or better and not badly corroded, replacing the cartridge is a straightforward, cheap fix compared with a full faucet replacement.
  • People often underestimate how much a drip costs: dozens of gallons a day over months adds up on your water bill.
  • DIYers report that the hardest part is usually:
    • Getting old parts unstuck (penetrating oil helps).
    • Identifying the faucet brand/model to get the correct cartridge.
  • Many users say a 15–30 minute cartridge swap saved them from paying hundreds for a new faucet and installation.

When to Replace Instead of Repair

Consider replacing the whole faucet if:

  • The body is heavily corroded or pitted.
  • Threads are damaged or parts are no longer made.
  • You have repeated leaks from different points even after repairs.
  • You want upgraded features (pull‑down sprayer, better finish, water‑saving design).

Newer faucets can be more efficient and easier to repair later because parts are standardized and readily available.

Small Troubleshooting Cheat Sheet

  • Drip only from hot side: hot cartridge or hot‑side washer/stem is failing.
  • Drip only from cold: cold‑side cartridge/washer.
  • Leak around the handle: packing, O‑rings, or loose packing nut.
  • Leak at base of spout: worn O‑rings on the spout, especially on cartridge or ball faucets.

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  • Focus keyword: “how to fix a leaky faucet” should appear in title, first paragraph, and at least a few subheadings.
  • Meta description example (under ~155 characters):
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TL;DR

  • Turn off water, disassemble the handle, and identify whether you have a compression, cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc faucet.
  • Replace the worn internal part (washer, O‑ring, cartridge, seats/springs), grease rubber parts lightly, then reassemble and turn water back on slowly.
  • If parts are corroded, obsolete, or the faucet keeps leaking, replacement may be the smarter long‑term move.

Information gathered from public forums or data available on the internet and portrayed here.