To get rid of chipmunks, focus on making your yard unattractive to them, blocking access to key areas, and using humane deterrents or traps if needed.

Quick Scoop

  • Clean up food and hiding spots so chipmunks don’t want to stay.
  • Block off foundations, decks, and garden beds so they can’t burrow where it matters.
  • Use repellents and, if necessary, humane live traps—check local wildlife laws first.
  • Avoid poison; it’s risky for pets, kids, and other wildlife.

1. Clean up what attracts chipmunks

Chipmunks show up where food and cover are easy. Start here:

  • Pick up fallen birdseed, nuts, berries, and fruit regularly.
  • Move bird feeders away from the house and garden, and use catch trays to reduce spilled seed.
  • Store birdseed, pet food, and grass seed in sealed metal or thick plastic containers.
  • Rake away leaf piles and remove brush, rock piles, and stacked lumber that give them hiding spots.
  • Thin out groundcovers and trim shrubs so there’s a visible gap at the bottom; they like dense, low cover.

Think of it as making your yard “boring” from a chipmunk’s point of view.

2. Block and exclude (foundations, decks, gardens)

If they’re tunneling near your house or decks, exclusion is key:

  • Seal small gaps into the house (around pipes, vents, steps, siding) with:
    • Exterior caulk or masonry crack filler for tiny gaps.
    • Hardware cloth (metal mesh), copper mesh, or steel wool for larger openings, secured so they can’t be pulled out.
  • Around decks, sheds, and patios:
    • Install hardware cloth or similar mesh from the structure down into the soil and bend it outward in an L-shape (about 8–12 inches out) to stop tunneling.
  • For gardens and beds:
    • Use a low wire mesh fence (about 2–3 feet high) with the bottom buried 6–8 inches.
    • In high‑value beds (bulbs, vegetables), lay mesh under the soil surface before planting to prevent burrows.

This doesn’t get rid of chipmunks everywhere, but it protects the places where they can cause the most damage.

3. Repellents and plants they don’t like

Repellents work best as part of a broader plan, not alone.

Scent and taste repellents

  • Commercial rodent or animal repellents (often with ingredients like bitter agents, garlic, or pepper) can be sprayed on soil and around plants.
  • Some people also use:
    • Predator urine products (like coyote or fox), applied near burrow entries and along borders.
    • Strong-smelling substances (garlic or hot pepper sprays) on target plants.
  • Always follow label directions and reapply after rain; none of these are 100% effective, so expect to repeat.

Plants that may deter chipmunks

While not foolproof, some gardeners report fewer problems when they:

  • Plant bulbs and ornamentals like daffodils and certain alliums (garlic/onion family) around more vulnerable plants.
  • Avoid putting chipmunk favorites (like tulips) in unprotected, easy-access spots.

Think of repellents as a “nudge” tool: they encourage chipmunks to choose somewhere else, especially when combined with cleanup and blocking.

4. Humane trapping and relocation (if legal where you live)

If you already have a serious chipmunk problem:

  • Use small live traps placed:
    • Along known runways or near burrow entrances.
    • Baited with peanut butter, sunflower seeds, or other seeds/grains.
  • Check traps frequently (at least once or twice a day) to avoid stress or suffering.
  • Handle traps carefully; chipmunks can bite when scared.
  • Check local regulations:
    • In many areas, transporting and releasing wildlife is restricted or illegal.
    • Some regions require that wildlife be released on your own property or handled by a licensed professional.

If relocation isn’t allowed or practical, consider calling a wildlife or pest- control professional who offers humane options.

5. What to avoid (safety and ethics)

  • Avoid poisons:
    • They can harm pets, children, birds of prey, and other wildlife.
    • A poisoned chipmunk can be eaten by another animal, spreading the problem.
  • Be cautious with lethal snap traps outdoors:
    • They can injure or kill non‑target animals (songbirds, squirrels, small pets).
    • If used at all, they should be in tamper‑resistant boxes and positioned very carefully.
  • Don’t completely strip all cover from a large property:
    • You want to reduce access near structures and gardens, not turn your entire yard into a sterile zone.

A good rule: protect your home and garden while minimizing suffering and collateral damage.

6. Simple step‑by‑step plan

  1. Walk your yard and note:
    • Burrow holes, runways, damaged beds, and where food/cover are.
  2. Clean and declutter:
    • Move feeders, pick up food, remove brush, and trim shrubs.
  3. Protect key areas:
    • Seal openings at house level; add mesh around decks and gardens.
  4. Add repellents:
    • Use scent/taste repellents around beds and known chipmunk routes.
  5. Trap if needed:
    • Use live traps where activity is high, and follow local rules for release.
  6. Call a pro:
    • If tunnels are undermining structures or nothing else is working, bring in a wildlife/pest-control specialist.

7. Mini “forum-style” perspectives

“I stopped getting chipmunk damage basically overnight once I moved the bird feeder 30 feet from the garden and cleaned up all the spilled seed.”

“Repellents alone never did much for me, but once I closed off the gaps under my steps and deck, they mostly gave up and moved on.”

“I used small live traps for a few weeks. It was more work than I expected, and I had to learn what the local laws allowed, but it reduced the population enough that my plants recovered.”

Quick TL;DR

Make your yard less attractive (no easy food, fewer hiding spots), block foundations and garden beds with mesh and buried barriers, supplement with repellents, and only then consider humane trapping within local laws. Information gathered from public forums or data available on the internet and portrayed here.